Not long after arriving in Australia from London, I found myself embarking on an entirely different kind of adventure: moving to Papua New Guinea. With a six-week-old baby boy in tow and still a teenager myself, it was a cultural immersion unlike anything I could have imagined. Our destination was Rabaul, a town in East New Britain in the Bismarck Archipelago, right on the equator. Here, the heat was constant, with the only variation being the rain.
Settling into the Unexpected
We first settled in Nonga, just outside Rabaul, right on the water. Life there was primitive, a stark contrast to my London upbringing. We had a wonderful “hausboi” (house helper) who assisted with cleaning, and my then-husband, who worked for a car company, meant I always had a vehicle to explore in. We soon moved into the heart of Rabaul, making two moves within the township. My new hausboi, Baptis, became my guardian angel, staying with me throughout my time in Rabaul.
Our house itself held a secret; it sat atop an old underground township built by the Japanese during World War II, as Rabaul was central to the war in the Pacific. It even had tunnels that once held submarines! With the heavy rains, the gardens began to sink, and holes appeared everywhere in town. I had to be incredibly careful not to lose my son down one of them.
A Diver’s Paradise and Culinary Delights
The natural harbor of Rabaul was truly unique, teeming with sunken ships and submarines—a diver’s dream. As a lover of seafood, I was in my element, with an abundance of fresh fish to choose from daily. Our days were often spent traveling to remote cocoa and coffee plantations on the outer parts of the island, accessible only by boat. We also ventured to other islands beyond East New Britain, including a memorable flight to the stunning Trobriand Islands, known as the “Islands of Love”—they were unspoiled and unlike anywhere else on earth. Each part of PNG, from the mainland to the highlands and every island, possessed its own distinct charm.
During this time, I met Connie, a wonderful lady who became my adopted grandmother. A woman of British gentry, she had spent her life in the colonies of Africa, India, and PNG, possessing a deep affinity for travel and a profound respect for the countries she lived in. Connie taught me to cook exotic foods and even made clothes for me based on my designs. I’d often travel to Singapore, Hawaii, and Indonesia, collecting unique fabrics for my creations.
Flights, Dignitaries, and Delicious Food
We befriended pilots who were uniquely trained for the rugged terrain of PNG. It wasn’t uncommon to find ourselves flying on aircraft belonging to prominent figures like Michael Somare and Sir Julius Chan, who spent his weekends in Rabaul. Connie would often enlist my help in preparing food fit for dignitaries. I’d return home, and with Baptis’s help, we’d prepare raw fish marinated in lime juice. He’d climb the coconut tree to gather fresh coconut meat and juice for marinades, alongside the abundance of beautiful, long red PNG papayas – truly unique.
I would regularly fly back to Australia to collect necessary supplies, as ships only arrived every three months. Connie’s husband, Tony, ran the local supermarket, and it was my job to choose the produce. It was often easier to import from New Zealand and the UK, as Australia was notoriously prone to strikes and difficult to deal with – a challenge that, I’m afraid, hasn’t changed much, only becoming more regulated.
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